Jewish Life in the Golan in the Ancient Times
Jewish life in the Golan reached its height in Second Temple times and afterwards. Looking at a map of ancient synagogues excavated in Israel, a huge number are located in the Golan and there are likely many more that have not been found yet. This phenomenon is part of the move north to the Galilee after the Bar Kokhba Revolt but there are Jewish communities on the Golan already centuries before that. Most were located in the south and central Golan and were small agricultural settlements.
Masada of the North
We know there was a large amount of olive oil production because of the many olive presses that have been found. Perhaps the most famous Second Temple Golan community is Gamla. This town has received the nickname Masada of the North because of the terrible battle and suicide that happened there during the Great Revolt according to Josephus. But Gamla has much more to teach about Jewish life than just the final battle.
We know about the town from Josephus’ description. The 1st century CE Jewish (turned Roman) writer tells us that it is difficult to reach and the mountain looks like a camel, hence the name, Gamla from gamal – meaning camel. Josephus describes the siege of the Romans on the town in the second year of the Great Revolt. Once Gamla was taken the Jewish resistance in the north was over, the Romans advanced on Jerusalem. Josephus describes a dramatic two stage battle where first the Jews seem to be winning and then the tide turns and the Romans are victorious. The Jews in desperation, leap off the mountain into the ravine below rather than be captured.
Incredible Discovery After the 6 Day War
The story is powerful but until very recently that is all it was, a story. However, after the Six-Day War a large archaeological survey was made of the Golan. One of the archaeologists in charge, Shmaryahu Gutman, was particularly interested in finding Gamla. The surveyor, Yitzchaki Gal, called Gutman to come see a site overlooking the Kinneret. It was an elongated mountain with steep drop-offs on all sides, looking very much like a camel’s hump. Gutman told the assembled surveyors to go down towards the site and see who would be the first one to find a coin. Within a short time a coin of Alexander Yannai, a Hasmonean king, was found. It would be one of the more than six thousand ancient coins found at Gamla during the excavation!
Gutman saw the remains of the ancient city wall and had to decide where to begin excavating. He chose what seemed to be a more well-made part of the wall and was rewarded by discovering the ancient synagogue built into the city wall. This is one of the oldest synagogues ever discovered and it is different than its contemporaries in Herodion and Masada in that it was built as part of a Jewish community, not as a temporary space by rebels who took over one of Herod’s palaces. In general, Gamla provides a picture of Jewish life in a small town before the Great Revolt. The battle is exciting but it is perhaps more exciting to see everyday life.
Besides the synagogue, the excavators uncovered streets and alleyways as well as mikvaot (ritual baths). One very unusual find was a side beam attached to a doorpost at the entrance to an alley. This seems to be a lechi, a beam that the rabbis used to allow carrying in an alleyway on Shabbat. Pages of the Gemara are devoted to the concept of lechi, but finding a real one is amazing.
Remains of the battle were also found in Gamla. Arrowheads, Roman armor, catapult stones and a hook for climbing a wall were all found. There was clearly a battle here, not just preparation for a battle. The structure of the houses on the slope also lends credence to Josephus’ description of the Roman soldiers crowding onto the roofs of the houses as they retreated or advanced. The most moving battle find are perhaps the seven Revolt coins, crudely overstamped with a powerful message: לגאולת ירושלים הקדושה for the redemption of holy Jerusalem. The rebels here did not see their fight as one that was meant to save their town or even to save the Golan. Rather they linked their fate with that of their brothers in Jerusalem, defending the holy Temple.
The People of Eternity Are Not Afraid of a Long Path
It took exactly 1900 years but Jews returned to Gamla and have now settled nearby. Visitors come from all over to see the breathtaking site and hear the incredible story of a regular Jewish town that connected their destiny to that of faraway Jerusalem.
Shulie Mishkin is a tour guide and educator in Israel. She can be reached for tours, lectures or to explore ancient synagogues at [email protected]
